Ya Can’t Stop ’Em: A Pair of Hotly Anticipated Restaurants Makes a Delicious Debut

Despite the Covid crisis, two must-hits — both named for their superstar chef-owners — are now open.

Julie Soefer
Ya Can’t Stop ’Em: A Pair of Hotly Anticipated Restaurants Makes a Delicious Debut

August is famously a slow month in the restaurant world. But in recent years, with a big thanks to Houston Restaurant Weeks, Houston has turned that perception on its head. And this year, despite a global pandemic ravaging the food service industry, a pair of high-profile restaurant openings is on H-Town's August calendar.


Last Wednesday, Ronnie Killen's first inner-Loop endeavor opened in the former Hickory Hollow space on Heights Boulevard at Washington. The concept was announced nearly a year-and-a-half ago, and fans of the James Beard-semifinalist pit-master's comfort-food fare have been salivating in anticipation since. Killen's, which is currently offering socially distanced seating, looks a little different than in its Hickory Hollow heyday. There's a laidback but polished vibe, with shiplap-covered walls and industrial-chic light fixtures. Sunflowers and photos of the chef's family — including ones of his grandmother Millie, by whom the menu was largely inspired — bring a sense of warmth to the space.

Squash Blossom at BludornSquash Blossom at Bludorn

As for the food, expect much of the same mouthwatering goodness experienced at his fried-chicken pop-ups throughout the last year — including his chicken-fried steak with country gravy that literally weighs a full pound. There's also fried green tomatoes with buttermilk sauce, and an ever-comforting chicken-and-dumplings dish. Wash all of this down with one of more than 250 bottles of wine — or a refreshing cocktail such as the Brandy Lift, with root-beer bitters and Topo Chico.

Meanwhile, another famous chef opened his long-awaited restaurant on Friday. Aaron Bludorn — who's worked in several Michelin-starred restaurants and appeared on Netflix's The Final Table — and his wife Victoria Bludorn (née Pappas, of that Pappas family) unveiled Bludorn's in Montrose.

Bludorn BarBludorn Bar

It occupies a space that's very familiar to foodies, as it previously housed Pass and Provisions (and, before that, Gravitas). The formerly divided-in-two restaurant is now a single, beautiful space with an open kitchen and breezy dining room. Bludorn's has a general feel of both a fine-dining and a neighborhood establishment. Aaron's menu of Gulf-tinged New American foods includes a “tamale pie" with shortrib and ancho chili, and foie gras with Texas peaches. The salmon is presented with a crunchy “five-seed" encasing, served atop blistered zucchini and a puree of avocado.

Both Killen and Aaron Bludorn have acknowledged the risk that comes with opening a restaurant in this era of Covid-19 — but based on the response from diners in the first few days, the rewards will most certainly follow.

AT TOP: Baked Alaska

Food+Travel
Fall Philanthropy Report: March of Dimes’ ‘Signature Chefs’ Event Coming in November

What year was your organization launched? 1938

What is your mission? March of Dimes was founded in 1938 by President Franklin D. Roosevelt as the National Foundation for Infantile Paralysis, to combat polio. The name “March of Dimes” was suggested by entertainer Eddie Cantor as a way to encourage people to donate even a small amount, like a dime, to help fight polio.

Keep Reading Show less

Diana Madero, Thea Pheasey, Alejandra Peterman, Hillary Jebbitt

EIGHT CHEFS, THIRTY years — and one big dinner! Urban Harvest rang in its fourth decade of community gardens, farmers markets and food access at their annual farm-to-table dinner cooked up by some of the most notable chefs in town.

Keep Reading Show less
Parties

The inspired menu at Amalfi emphasizes fresh seafood and, on right, Giancarlo Ferrara

THIS WEDNESDAY, AMALFI Ristorante will transport guests to the sun-soaked shores of Southern Italy’s Campania region, home to the glamorous island of Capri, with a six-course dinner. The menu, curated by Executive Chef Giancarlo Ferrara, will be paired with wines from Agricola Bellaria Winery, one of Campania’s most celebrated estates.

Keep Reading Show less
Food