Study Abroad

At Agricole Hospitality’s new Indianola diner, America’s melting pot has never tasted so delicious.

Julie Soefer
img_1102
img_1102

For immigrants looking to start a new life, the port through which they pass to reach a final destination is never forgotten. For Morgan Weber’s family, that port was Indianola, near Matagorda Bay, and is now the namesake of his new restaurant.


“We knew we did not want to repeat a Coltivare,” explains Weber, referring to Agricole Hospitality’s Heights restaurant he owns with chef-partner Ryan Pera. He and Pera pondered the American notion of the melting pot; their team members find their roots in Italy via Ellis Island, San Francisco by way of Vietnam, and beyond. Paul Lewis, exec chef of Agricole’s three EaDo concepts — Indianola, Vinny’s pizza joint and Miss Carousel cocktail bar — hails from the U.K. They decided to “do immigrant food in America, presented in a fresh way.”

Weber reimagined the space — a 1940s warehouse with exposed brick — as a light, bright diner, another departure from Coltivare’s rustic aesthetic. Find neat rows of blush banquettes, high ceilings bedecked with greenery, and a long bar that faces an open kitchen.

Lewis’ slow-cooked pork ribs are a house fave: They’re rubbed down with green-chili paste, marinated overnight, baked, fried, tossed with Korean BBQ sauce, and topped with pickled daikon radish.

His new weekend brunch menu is just as distinct, with a pecan-sprinkled warm chocolate-and-cinnamon babka (Seinfeld fans rejoice!), and Moroccan-style fried eggs, presented in a spicy tomato ragu alongside toasted sourdough. And it isn’t brunch without a cocktail; the carrot-juice bloody Mary, garnished with pickled veggies, sounds guilt-free ... ish.

Breakfast service is soon to follow — and Weber’s own American dream of achieving an all-day diner will be realized.

AT TOP: The passion fruit pot de crème at Indianola

Uncategorized

Actor Alan Brincks gets his makeup done for 'A Midsummer Night's Dream.'

BEGINNING AUG. 1 THROUGH Aug. 10, the Houston Shakespeare Festival, the professional arm of the University of Houston’s School of Theater and Dance, takes the stage at Miller Outdoor Theatre for its 50th iteration. The milestone event includes productions of Romeo & Juliet and A Midsummer Night's Dream, plus "Bard talks," all at no cost to viewers.

Keep Reading Show less
Art + Entertainment

Dandelion Cafe owners Sarah Lieberman and J.C. Ricks with Mireya Villarreal of GMA, Chris Shepherd and Lindsey Brown of Southern Smoke Foundation (photo by Shane Dante Photography)

THE SOUTHERN SMOKE Foundation, established by chef Chris Shepherd, has only been around for seven years — but that's long enough to have helped hospitality workers through hurricanes, freezes, a pandemic, and countless other personal situations requiring emergency relief.

Keep Reading Show less
Food