Study Abroad

At Agricole Hospitality’s new Indianola diner, America’s melting pot has never tasted so delicious.

Julie Soefer
img_1102
img_1102

For immigrants looking to start a new life, the port through which they pass to reach a final destination is never forgotten. For Morgan Weber’s family, that port was Indianola, near Matagorda Bay, and is now the namesake of his new restaurant.


“We knew we did not want to repeat a Coltivare,” explains Weber, referring to Agricole Hospitality’s Heights restaurant he owns with chef-partner Ryan Pera. He and Pera pondered the American notion of the melting pot; their team members find their roots in Italy via Ellis Island, San Francisco by way of Vietnam, and beyond. Paul Lewis, exec chef of Agricole’s three EaDo concepts — Indianola, Vinny’s pizza joint and Miss Carousel cocktail bar — hails from the U.K. They decided to “do immigrant food in America, presented in a fresh way.”

Weber reimagined the space — a 1940s warehouse with exposed brick — as a light, bright diner, another departure from Coltivare’s rustic aesthetic. Find neat rows of blush banquettes, high ceilings bedecked with greenery, and a long bar that faces an open kitchen.

Lewis’ slow-cooked pork ribs are a house fave: They’re rubbed down with green-chili paste, marinated overnight, baked, fried, tossed with Korean BBQ sauce, and topped with pickled daikon radish.

His new weekend brunch menu is just as distinct, with a pecan-sprinkled warm chocolate-and-cinnamon babka (Seinfeld fans rejoice!), and Moroccan-style fried eggs, presented in a spicy tomato ragu alongside toasted sourdough. And it isn’t brunch without a cocktail; the carrot-juice bloody Mary, garnished with pickled veggies, sounds guilt-free ... ish.

Breakfast service is soon to follow — and Weber’s own American dream of achieving an all-day diner will be realized.

AT TOP: The passion fruit pot de crème at Indianola

Uncategorized

Composer Lera Auerbach (photo by Raniero Tazzi)

IN A RECENT televised interview with late-night talk show host Stephen Colbert, Australian singer/songwriter Nick Cave eloquently described music as “one of the last legitimate opportunities we have to experience transcendence.” It was a surprisingly deep statement for a network comedy show, but anyone who has attended a loud, sweaty rock concert, or ballet performance with a live orchestra, knows what Cave is talking about.

Keep Reading Show less
Art + Entertainment

'Is that how you treat your house guest'

ARTIST KAIMA MARIE’S solo exhibit For the record (which opens today at Art Is Bond) invites the viewer into a multiverse of beloved Houston landmarks, presented in dizzying Cubist perspectives. There are ornate interior spaces filled with paintings, books and records — all stuff we use to document and preserve personal, family and collective histories; and human figures, including members of Marie’s family, whose presence adds yet another quizzical layer to these already densely packed works. This isn’t art you look at for 15-30 seconds before moving on to the next piece; there’s a real pleasure in being pulled into these large-scale photo collages, which Marie describes as “puzzles without a reference image.”

Keep Reading Show less
Art + Entertainment