Study Abroad

At Agricole Hospitality’s new Indianola diner, America’s melting pot has never tasted so delicious.

Julie Soefer
img_1102
img_1102

For immigrants looking to start a new life, the port through which they pass to reach a final destination is never forgotten. For Morgan Weber’s family, that port was Indianola, near Matagorda Bay, and is now the namesake of his new restaurant.


“We knew we did not want to repeat a Coltivare,” explains Weber, referring to Agricole Hospitality’s Heights restaurant he owns with chef-partner Ryan Pera. He and Pera pondered the American notion of the melting pot; their team members find their roots in Italy via Ellis Island, San Francisco by way of Vietnam, and beyond. Paul Lewis, exec chef of Agricole’s three EaDo concepts — Indianola, Vinny’s pizza joint and Miss Carousel cocktail bar — hails from the U.K. They decided to “do immigrant food in America, presented in a fresh way.”

Weber reimagined the space — a 1940s warehouse with exposed brick — as a light, bright diner, another departure from Coltivare’s rustic aesthetic. Find neat rows of blush banquettes, high ceilings bedecked with greenery, and a long bar that faces an open kitchen.

Lewis’ slow-cooked pork ribs are a house fave: They’re rubbed down with green-chili paste, marinated overnight, baked, fried, tossed with Korean BBQ sauce, and topped with pickled daikon radish.

His new weekend brunch menu is just as distinct, with a pecan-sprinkled warm chocolate-and-cinnamon babka (Seinfeld fans rejoice!), and Moroccan-style fried eggs, presented in a spicy tomato ragu alongside toasted sourdough. And it isn’t brunch without a cocktail; the carrot-juice bloody Mary, garnished with pickled veggies, sounds guilt-free ... ish.

Breakfast service is soon to follow — and Weber’s own American dream of achieving an all-day diner will be realized.

AT TOP: The passion fruit pot de crème at Indianola

Uncategorized
Leadership in Action: Clothiers Murry and Karen Penner Celebrate Family Business’ 50-Year Anny

Murry & Karen Penner, Owners, M PENNER

How did you get where you are today? We’ve stayed true to the vision of the store’s founder, Morris Penner, who relentlessly sought out unique product, with exceptional quality being a key element. Morris always used to say, “The fastest way to lose a customer is to bore him” and we agree. A percentage of every season’s budget is allocated to something new and unique. While product is key, it’s not enough. Having an excellent staff and discipline in business practices is also critical.

Keep Reading Show less

Blake and Dana Fertitta with Belle and Zoe

CITIZENS FOR ANIMAL Protection (CAP) is having a very merry holiday season, having raised a record-breaking $1 million at its annual gala in November.

Keep Reading Show less
Parties

Mason Clark-Sadeghi and Army Sadeghi (photo by Daniel Ortiz)

AL FRESCO DINNERS with food prepared by buzzy chefs may be trendy these days, but Gracie Cavnar’s Recipe for Success was way ahead of the curve, with her annual Delicious Alchemy banquet coming ’round for the 19th time this fall.

Keep Reading Show less
Food