IT WAS LOVE at first bite of the tender, housemade pasta — think mushrooms, garlic and hints of lemon and white wine — at the preview party of new Milton’s in Rice Village, which officially bows Sept. 27.

The convivial American trattoria is the brainchild of Houston restaurateur Benjy Levit (Benjy’s, Local Foods, Lee’s Den, Maximo), culinary director Seth Siegel-Gardner, exec-chef Kent Domas and the Local Foods Group. Milton’s, named after Benjy’s late father, resides in the former Eau Tour space above Local Foods.

If you’ve followed the Houston dining scene long enough, you know that if Levit’s concepts need tweaking, he will quickly pivot. "We wanted to create an intimate space where people can come together to meet old friends and make new ones," says Levit. "Reflecting back to the golden age of gathering, our team has worked tirelessly to create an elegant yet unpretentious dining experience with comforting shareable dishes and incredible drinks evoking subtle nostalgia.”

Craveable starters include the Tigelle Platter with baked-to-order Emilia Romagna-style stamped flatbreads and salumi, house pickles, or chicken liver mousse with whipped ricotta. Three-day-fermented sourdough garlic knots with burrata and fresh shaved truffles; and rocket and parsley salad with Parmesan, warm guanciale, and lemon also hit the spot.

A scratch-made pasta program is at the heart of the menu, and you can really taste the freshness. Options include pillowy ricotta gnocchi with cacio e pepe; Bolognese with rigatoni, sherry and Parmesan; and agnolotti del plin stuffed with mortadella and prosciutto. Chicken Parmesan will be a staple, alongside eggplant and veal Parmesan options, and luxurious 100-layer lasagna will feature unique fillings changing weekly. We look forward to the towering tiramisu with made-in-house coffee liqueur as our sweet finale.

Highlights of the bar program by beverage director Máté Hartai (Refuge, Tongue Cut Sparrow) include Milton’sMartini with Barolo Chinato, dry vermouths, and London dry gin, kissed with champagne bitters; The 77 Beige, whiskey and Benedictine enhanced with sesame and brown butter; and Caffe Incoretto, a riff on the classic espresso and liqueur drink. Hartai also makes Rubycello with Texas Ruby Red grapefruit in a limoncello treatment and as the star of a highball with Cocchi Rosso and rosé bubbles.

Rather sip vino? Expect Old and New World options and some fun and funky bottle and by-the-glass selections at various price points.

To create the warm interiors, Brittany Vaughan of Garnish Design leaned away from classic trattoria colors and motifs, choosing a preppy color palette of Irish green and golden yellow. An 11-seat Brunswick-styled bar leads to the open kitchen and roomy plush banquettes welcome guests for a leisurely supper. Mahogany accents throughout the dining room channel a New England yacht club, with brass lighting fixtures completing the 60-seat space. An enclosed patio will serve as a private dining room for intimate gatherings.

Vaughan is also spearheading the revamp of adjoining concept Lee’s Den, expected to open this winter as an elegant speakeasy tucked away amongst the canopy of surrounding trees. Cocktails, wine, and small bites will be on offer.

Gnocchi

Tiramisu