Eye-Catching New MFAH Show Tackles Racism, Creativity — and 35 Years of One South African Artist's Work
Jun. 26, 2023
NOW ON VIEW at the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston is William Kentridge: In Praise of Shadows. Organized in collaboration with The Broad, Los Angeles, the exhibition encapsulates 35 years of Kentridge’s artistic output, and features over 80 thematically interconnected works, including charcoal drawings (you’ve never seen so many gradations of black, white and gray), stop-animation films, and bizarre assemblages of gears, camera lenses, and megaphones.
Born in 1955 in Johannesburg, Kentridge uses art to explore the colonial roots and horrors of systemic racism and apartheid and the current socio-political realities of South Africa since it held its first democratic elections in 1994. He also investigates (and maybe defends?) the very nature of creativity, and the tools and actions applied in art making.
'Stereoscope,' 1999
'Second-hand Reading,' 2013
'7 Fragments for Georges Méliès,' installation view, 2003
In “7 Fragments for Georges Méliès” — an immersive installation of nine simultaneously projected films, many starring Kentridge in the flesh — Kentridge brings the viewer deep into his studio, a sacred space where creative vision is born out of imaginative free association and (as any working artist will attest) repetitive physical activity. In one film, Kentridge’s wife appears behind him, nude, looking like an apparition in a silent movie but also recognizable as a life partner and a radiant source of archetypical feminine energy.
Without a doubt, In Praise of Shadows is the most provocative and historically acute exhibition the MFAH has hosted since the controversial 2022 retrospective, Philip Guston Now. Kentridge’s art, like Guston’s, is socially conscious, intensely autobiographical, and informed by a strong sense of justice, as embodied by his parents, both of them barristers who represented victims of South Africa’s apartheid system. (Kentridge’s father Sydney led the 1978 inquest into the torture and murder of anti-apartheid activist Steve Biko.) Like Guston, Kentridge was born into a Jewish family, and satirical, and often terrifying figurative symbols of white supremacy populate each artists’ work. There are Guston’s notorious Klansmen, cartoonish hooded figures Kentridge himself traces back to Giorgio de Chirico’s surreal images of mannequin heads tightly wrapped in white, stitched fabric, which certainly alluded to Guston’s childhood in Los Angeles in 1919, a time when the city was an incubator and haven for the Ku Klux Klan. Meanwhile, Kentridge’s Soho Eckstein, a recurring charcoal-rendered character inspired in part by Kentridge's paternal grandfather Morris, has evolved over the years from an obvious symbol of colonial brutality and industrial greed, to someone a bit wearier and more confused, a stuffed suit bearing witness to the benefits of white privilege.
Also like Guston, Kentridge possesses a deep knowledge of the whole of Western art, and the sheer range of works on display is a lot for the average museum-goer to take in; from Duchampian constructions that include three Singer sewing machines, each fitted with an external megaphone and timed to “sing” a prerecorded, very South African-sounding anthem; to several hours’ worth of hand-drawn, stop-animation films; to small, black bronze sculptures looking very much like shadows cast as 3D reliefs.
But the MFAH’s thoughtful and (mostly) chronological installation gives the viewer plenty of space and time to take in Kentridge’s oeuvre and learn more about complex history of Johannesburg, a city he loves and adamantly refuses to abandon.
William Kentridge: In Praise of Shadows is on view through Sept. 10.
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With Cliff Jumping, Salt Pyramids and Flocks of Flamingos, the Caribbean’s Bonaire a Hidden Gem
Jun. 26, 2023
PLANNING A VACATION to the Caribbean usually involves daydreaming about lush, tropical scenes — white-sand beaches, cloud forests, endless relaxation. But on the tucked-away island of Bonaire, a different sort of paradise exists.
The “B” in the Dutch Caribbean’s ABC islands, Bonaire is an amalgamation of ecosystems and cultures (not unlike its native language Papiamentu, which borrows from Portuguese, French, Spanish and Dutch). Amenities here don’t always cater to American visitors — but that’s by design. Bonaire’s economy is built around sustainability efforts; the island is the world’s first certified Blue Destination, meaning habitats are to remain unspoiled and ocean conservation is top priority.
As a result, Bonaire, built entirely atop coral, has gained a reputation as a diver’s paradise, with the “fishiest” reefs in the world. But tourists need not be scuba aficionados to enjoy all the island has to offer — beginning at Flamingo Airport, where direct, four-hour flights from Houston land and depart every Saturday. The café here boasts the best pastechi on the island: Think cheese-stuffed empanadas, but doughy rather than flaky. It’s the perfect welcome treat — or parting gift.
Places to stay range from boutique (check out Bamboo, with an exclusive chef’s table that must be booked months in advance) to spacious, as in Harbour Village, situated on a 60-slip marina.
But with Dutch-apartment-style accommodations suitable for singles, couples or families — and an expansive, hammock-laden beach overlooking impossibly clear water filled with coral reefs — Delfins Beach Resort is a go-to. In the past, Bonaire has not been considered a foodie destination. But Delfins’ Michelin-starred Brass Boer will exceed any expectations, even those of the most well traveled foodies.
Other standouts include Number 10, a colorful, chef-driven restaurant in the small but funky downtown area. And longtime local hangout Posada Para Mira serves traditional Caribbean fare to a soundtrack of live cuatro music and children delightfully playing on the slides and swings.
Residents and tourists, who are most often blonde and beautiful and Dutch, are likely to enjoy their meals al fresco: A common sight to behold is families pulling foldable chairs and tables — and even a pop-up grill — out of their car, and situating themselves on a beach. It’s hot, yes, but there’s usually a strong wind to keep cool (in fact, world-class windsurfers train at Bonaire’s Jibe City beach). Food trucks tout local delicacies like lionfish, and fresh-squeezed passionfruit juice served in repurposed beer bottles.
To get around the island, which is a bit smaller than Galveston, renting a car or scooter is recommended. The latter costs around $20 per day, and can be booked through your hotel. But a car is necessary to tour Washington-Slagbaai National Park, where one could easily spend an entire day observing iridescent lizards, hanging with donkeys, and hiking up dusty paths weaving through red rocks to score epic, 360-degree views.
After that, the water is calling: Dive sites are marked with yellow stones, and a snorkel mask is all that’s needed. Walk straight off the rocky beach and into the turquoise waters, where parrot fish, barracuda, turtles and more await. Boats of all sorts can be chartered for a couple hours or a whole day, depending on how adventurous the group is.
Another only-in-Bonaire activity is caving, or exploring the naturally formed caverns in the coral. Certified guides like Dirk with Cave Tours Bonaire help patrons lower themselves into a literal hole in the ground, then discover the incredible formations down under. Some are wet caves, in which snorkeling is welcome.
Dirk volunteers his time to bat-conservation efforts, as do a lot of Bonaire residents to various sustainability and stewardship organizations. It’s one of many reasons that this Dutch island is an incomparable haven — for ocean life and humankind alike.
Climb up through the cacti to jump off of cliffs in Bonaire’s Washington-Slagbaai National Park.
Flamingos in Bonaire
The sale pyramids in Bonaire
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