Wagyu tartare with harissa
What’s this club? It’s Albi, the new Middle Eastern restaurant on West Gray, joining fellow newcomer Zanti and mainstays B19, La Griglia and Perry’s to create a sceney district.
Vegas-style Albi is outfitted with dramatic chandeliers, posh red banquettes, and a few neon lights for good measure. Sibling owners Nano and Jimy Fakhoury of Mary’z Mediterranean worked with architect Adel Sadek, who also did the interiors of similarly vibey Ciel in River Oaks.
Perhaps the best surprise at surprise-filled Albi, though, is the food. Mark Cox consulted on the menu for Executive Chef Christian Hernandez, formerly of March. The pair came up with Lebanese, Greek and Turkish dishes that Nano believes will resonate in the “relaxed but buzzy corridor,” referring to the stretch of West Gray that connects Montrose and River Oaks.
Must-tries include the veal kefta, tender meatballs coated in lemony tarator sauce and served on a cinnamon stick, a la lollipops. And the feta dumplings are as indulgent and delicious as the name implies, served with a citrus labne.
As for the mains, don’t skip the lavender lamb rack served with zhoug, a bright, spicy cilantro sauce from Yemen.
Fun twists on classic cocktails are perfect for washing down all of this deliciousness — and also for sipping while taking in the scene. Try the gin and tonic with a dramatic showing of herbs and flowers on top. And for those there till 2am? The espresso martini with cinnamon vodka and Turkish coffee.
Lebanese Gin and Tonic
Lemon Halva Tart
Spinach and Feta Bulema
Texas Wagyu Ribeye
Turkish Expresso Martini
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Crab Croquettes
The name conjures up a tiny, casual oyster bar, right? So when diners walk in the door, they might be delightfully surprised by the retro Hollywood vibe: There’s a grand marble-topped bar, several dining areas including a temperature-modulated patio, and a luxe aesthetic.
Design director Evy Pappas has created a cool setting with crisp shades of white and navy blue inside and out, and gleaming brass lighting. There’s a charming galley-style side room wrapped in windows with banquette and table seating. The glassed-in retractable roof patio tucked in the back has more spacious seating, and provides a reprieve from the upbeat music and bustling bar area.
The cuisine, artfully created by chef Jason Ryczek, a California native and caviar expert, wows as well. Ryczek cut his chops in restaurants from San Diego to San Francisco. He cooked at the lauded sustainable seafood house Waterbar, and was the executive chef at award-winning Farallon. The chef also worked with the California Caviar Company for years.
So when it’s time to indulge in caviar, this is the place. Little’s signature roe is hand-selected sturgeon, which Ryczek personally harvested, and its accoutrements are downright addicting. A striking presentation is delivered to your table with puffed potato dumplings, radish butter, crème fraiche with onion jam, and chives. All caviar can be paired with a cocktail, Champagne or vodka from a handy pairing guide. A dollop of everything — including perfectly clean-tasting sturgeon fresh from the sea — ends up on the potato dumplings (think elevated tater tots). So amazing that you could stop at that one dish. But don’t.
The Atlantic yellowfin tuna crudo is also a refreshing dish Houstonians could eat all summer long. Served in a chilled broth made with pickled watermelon rind and peppers, the diced fresh crudo is crowned with chopped peanuts. As for the mains, expect King salmon, Texas redfish — and, in true Pappas style, a Prime dry-aged New York strip, with a mushroom demi glaze and truffle butter.
Little? Hardly.
Asparagus and Morels
Baked Gulf Oysters
Chef Jason Ryczek
The dining area
Glassed-in patio with retractable roof
Golden martini at the bar
Jumbo Lump Crab
Maine Lobster
Oyster & Raw Bar
The Caviar Spread