travel

A Dreamy L.A. Escape Entails Opulence, Intrigue — and Even Some Walking

Life’s a beach in Santa Monica

DOGS WITH PONYTAILS. Someone dressed like Jimmy Buffet on psychedelics blaring music from a speaker hanging from his neck. Another gent taking a conference call on a ’90s-era headset at the skate park. These are all scenes from a leisurely hour in Venice Beach, where eclecticism and luxury intersect in true Los Angeles fashion.

Between the good vibes and the whole weather-not-being-a-thing thing, it’s not hard to understand why people from all walks of life gravitate to the City of Angels. But above all, L.A. remains a place where the rich and famous, along with those who like to cosplay being rich and famous, thrive.

Take the Fairmont Century Plaza, for instance. The iconic hotel recently underwent a post-Covid renovation to the tune of $2.5 billion (yes, with a “b”), preserving its mid-century nostalgia while nodding to Los Angeles’ laidback luxury of the 2020s. In addition to 400 guest rooms (including 49 suites), the 16-floor property, situated on more than six Beverly-Hills-adjacent acres, has dozens of privately owned residences, a beautiful art collection — as well as Fairmont Gold, the brand’s 70-room hotel-within-a-hotel for uber-VIP guests.

The hotel’s brasserie, Lumiere, has what might be the best baguette ever, delightfully salty and served with extra-creamy butter. Stop in for bread and a cocktail, or stay and enjoy a plate of squid-ink pasta with spicy crabmeat and an unexpected hit of cilantro.

The Fairmont’s bottom-floor spa is a must, boasting its share of L.A. intrigue: chlorophyll water, experiential rain showers, bio-hacking treatments, a hammam room.

But for the true celeb experience, make a day trip to the Hotel Bel-Air, where a tucked-away spa sits among acres of lush gardens and instantly whisks visitors away to the privacy-laden land of Hollywood Glam.

Those who want to make more of a splash will find themselves in Brentwood, dining at hip, new restaurants like the Barcelona-inspired Teleferic. Or perhaps back in Venice, shopping along Abbott Kinney — Made in Earth jewelry; sustainable cashmere by Naadam; health-centric items a la green juice and essential oils — before hitting the vintage shops and the beach.

Meanwhile, Downtown L.A. may be a little more subdued, but isn’t without its charm. The Hotel Per La, occupying a former bank building that was previously the NoMad Hotel until 2022, is in the heart of one of the most walkable districts in the city. Nearby, the dual-property Moxy and AC Hotel just opened Level 8, an immersive-nightlife destination with eight different restaurants and lounges on the eighth floor.

That’s convenient, seeing as there’s something Houstonians might be reluctant to admit about L.A.: The traffic is, indeed, measurably worse.