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Feb. 6, 2017
"Le poireau brûlé" at Monsieur George
The newbie — Hotel Hana, on the Rue du Quatre Septembre in what’s sometimes called “Little Tokyo” — is, with just 26 rooms, the boutiquest of boutique hotels. And while the surrounding neighborhood boasts Paris’ oldest Japanese restaurant and no shortage of yakitori, and while the property’s décor is warmly spare per the crisp elegance associated with Land of the Rising Sun, the Hana vibe ultimately is pure Parisian.
It’s hard to avoid the Parisian feels with views in the guestrooms like this! Think blocks-long Haussmann-style sweeps of ivory-colored stone buildings, with wrought iron details and dormer windows on top. Those in corner rooms will feel absorbed on two sides, with five sets of French double windows to open wide.
Hana (which Vogue predicted will be the hit of the next Fashion Week) was prettied up by in-demand designers Oliver Leone and Laura Gonzalez, who broke with their typical boldly vivid work to post a cozy minimalism. There are grasscloth-wallpapered rooms and rich wood tones everywhere, with sweet notes of terracotta, mustard and rust. The lobby doubles as a quaint cocktail bar, ringed with pale plum banquettes. A similarly arranged little restaurant with an open kitchen, bleeding in from the opposite side of the check-in desk, offers a spin on traditional steak au poivre, infused with Japanese sansho pepper. The cheesecake is flavored with sake and sesame.
The hotel’s location is hard to beat. Boisterous brasseries and fab patisseries — one barely bigger than a closet, drawing crowds every time they pull a batch of salted double-chocolate-chip cookies from the oven — abound. The Louvre is close, the Opera House closer. And all of Paris is easily in reach, with a Métro station on the block; one must consider a trek to the artsy hilltop neighborhood of Montmartre, where the creperie near Sacré-Cœur Basilica produces a Comté cheese crepe, folded in half twice, and handed over looking a bit like an ice cream cone.
Meanwhile, at Monsieur George in the 8th, another one of Addresses’ hotels — they have six in Paris, plus two in the South of France — handsome chef Thomas Danigo, 32, is basking in the glow of his first Michelin star. And glow is the right word for Galanga restaurant, secreted away in back of a classic Haussmannian building just off the Champs-Élysées.
As Hana is bright and fresh, George and Galanga are dark and sexy. At night the antique mirrors in the restaurant reflect the twinkle lights strewn through the climbing ivy in the courtyard outside. It’s tasting-menu only, with exquisite wine pairings; the “burnt leek” course has become famous, the leaves folded tightly and offered with shaved pecorino and lots of soft, savory sabayon.
Bienvenue à Paris. Let the games begin.
Checking in at Hotel Hana
Night falls at Galanga
Flank steak au poivre at Hotel Hana’s Hananbi
The burrata-stuffed heirloom tomato at Cocody
Annabelle Brasserie
Inside Annabelle Brasserie (photo by Brian Kennedy)
When a fancy French fête is calling, Berg Hospitality’s feminine, all-day Autry Park gem is photo-ready, with flowers dangling from the ceilings, generous French doors streaming with sunlight, and cushy banquettes. Indulge with the raclette baguette prepared tableside and a Frenchie martini. Coq au Sutton is a lovely entrée with celery-root-truffle purée — and we can never pass up the lobster salad with caviar and lemon aioli.
Artisans
Beef tartare with poached egg yolk at Artisans
In its posh new Galleria-area home — which shockingly previously housed a James Coney Island — find a sultry hideaway with intimate dining areas, a showcase kitchen, and grand chef’s counter. Chef-restaurateur Jacques Fox and team play up French culinary classics with twists like the “trio of tastes,” with pan-seared scallops, blue-crab-stuffed wonton, and lobster cappuccino. A snug section of the bar can be reserved for a tête-a-tete or small gathering.
Bistro 555
From veteran Houston restaurateurs including Christophe Paul of Café Rabelais, and David and Sylvain Denis, this cozy Memorial go-to was originally Bistro Provence. It looks and tastes straight from the French countryside with dishes like frisée salad with lardons and French vinaigrette, and beef tenderloin with cognac green peppercorn sauce and garlic green beans. The succinct all-French wine list complements the menu beautifully down to the Sauternes to finish.
Brasserie du Parc
It may be on the ground floor of a Downtown highrise, but this breezy brasserie has a gorgeous view of Discovery Green and a glass “greenhouse” for dining. From deeply flavored lobster bisque to the pork-belly omelet and an indulgent croque monsieur, chef Jose Hernandez orchestrates menus for a business- and tourist-heavy crowd. Just add a glass of Sancerre and dessert for a fine repast. Divinely crackly mille-feuille apple tart with vanilla ice cream, anyone?
Brasserie 19
Although its founder is not French, this lively see-and-be-seen River Oaks mainstay certainly looks like a French brasserie with yards of white marble and bistro chairs. Its menu spotlights many French classics along with American fare. Top marks go to the Burgundy escargots, cassoulet beans with duck confit, and plump mussels in white wine, fennel and orange zest — with toasty baguettes, mercí! Salade Niçoise with seared tuna is a lunchtime fave.
Cocody Restaurant and Bar
The chef's table at Cocody
Swoon-worthy décor glistening with hundreds of crystal lights complements the fine French cuisine at this newcomer. Sink into a curvaceous rosy banquette for creations by French Master Chefs David Denis and Lionel Debon. Start the show with signature Lollies — skewers of stacked delicacies like salmon, cream cheese and sesame — or the clever whole-tomato and burrata plate. Segue to veal osso buco mushroom fricassee with risotto, or splurge on the Discovery multicourse tasting menu.
Etoile Cuisine Et Bar
Raspberry Bavaroise dessert (photo by Shannon O'Hara)
Since opening more than a decade ago in Uptown Park, Master Chef of France Philippe Verpiand’s authentic French haunt continues to shine. Regulars pile in for well executed cuisine like tarte fine au Saint Jacques (seared scallops) — or an impromptu bite at the bar of mushroom ravioli, moules a la crème with a French wine from the excellent list. All breads are house-made daily, and desserts are a must! Private wine room available.
Le Jardinier
Culinary Canvas Dish (photo by Julie Soefer)
When the setting requires cuisine equally as exquisite, the MFAH’s tres chic destination overlooking the Cullen Sculpture Garden is it. Grounded in French technique, the multiple menus offer modern twists with sophisticated plating. Roasted lamb with green pea coulis, Parisian gnocchi, and Dover Sole for Two are highlights. Expect seasonal plates inspired by current exhibits, too.
PS-21
Casablanca cocktail
Craving an intimate, softly lit cocoon complete with table linens for a French respite? Master Chef of France Philippe Schmit’s latest venture is the antidote for frenzied days, sans loud music. At this cozy Upper Kirby spot, start with the foie gras terrine and a French 75 garnished with a lemon macaron, and segue to steak frites ribeye with peppercorn, bordelaise or bearnaise sauce. The Grand Marnier soufflé with Clementine salad and crème anglaise is truly a grand finale.