Tel Aviv Vibes: Inside Rice Village’s Brightly Modern New Hamsa

Kirsten Gilliam
Tel Aviv Vibes: Inside Rice Village’s Brightly Modern New Hamsa

Grilled branzino

When it’s hot, you crave lighter fare, served in a breezy environment. Nothing too rich but humming instead with bright flavors and healthfulness. So modern Hamsa in Rice Village, a lovely modern setup with a hip soundtrack of Tel Aviv pop, is right on time this summer. Emanating from the Israeli masterminds of Doris Metropolitan steakhouse and Badolina bakery, it joins an exciting foodie scene emerging in the neighborhood also home to year-old Gratify, the beloved and newly expanded Sweet Paris Creperie & Café and, coming soon, Navy Blue from Aaron Bludorn and wife Victoria Pappas.


Lovers of Middle Eastern cuisine will find many of the gastronomic touchstones they expect on Hamsa chefs Sash Kurgan and Yotam Dolev’s compact menu — hummus, skewers — but with twists. Hummus, for example, may come Shakshuka-style, topped with an egg soft-poached in spicy tomato sauce. Or, then again, it may arrive piled with caramelized onions, pine nuts and cubes of roasted lamb. Other shareable starters include beef tartare with pomegranates, runny egg yolk and aioli — and the utterly guiltless cauliflower couscous with cranberries and almonds offered up on a plate lined with creamy, tangier-than-yogurt labneh.

Mains include the most appealing chicken shawarma ever — chunks of juicy chicken thighs cooked in lamb fat, which you mix with pickled veggies and tahini and stuff into fluffy fresh-baked pita — and grilled branzino, which is butterflied, grilled till the skin is crispy and delicious, and served atop a snappy, sweetly herbaceous fennel salad. Desserts are beautiful, as in the pink-hued, architectural, lightly rosewater-infused Basboosa Malabi cake, and the grilled pear served in a cardamom-scented syrup made from its own cooking liquids.

Basboosa Malabi cake

The bar

Falafel

Flatbread

Gin and Tonic

Shakshuka Hummus

Food
Introducing Dina Owner of Eyelashes by Dina

STEP INTO A world of luxury with Dina, the visionary owner of Eyelashes by Dina, nestled in the prestigious Saint James Place. Embrace the artistry of bespoke lash extensions, meticulously tailored to meet your every desire. With a decade of industry expertise, Dina elevates the lash game to an unparalleled level of sophistication. Discover a serene and elegant oasis, where every lash experience is a masterpiece. Indulge in the refinement of luxury, only at Eyelashes by Dina.

Keep Reading Show less

IN THE SEVENTH annual portfolio, meet luminaries from all walks of life who have helped make Houston — and beyond — a better place. Sponsored by Valobra Master Jewelers

Keep Reading Show less
People + Places

SINCE OPENING IN 2019, it’s been hard to get a reservation at Traveler’s Table, the global-cuisine eatery on Westheimer. Now, a more accessible version of the popular resto — yet, still stylish and modern with environs designed by Gin Braverman — is opening this week on Montrose Boulevard at West Gray.

Keep Reading Show less
Food