French Faves: As the Paris Games Approach, Houston Bubbles Over with Steak Frites and Escargot
Jun. 28, 2024
FRENCH CUISINE HAS been credited with providing the cooking foundation for the entire culinary world. Thankfully, Houston is home to many master chefs of France, some with multiple (and new!) local concepts, who are spreading the love of cuisine française across our city. Here’s your perfect 9.
Annabelle Brasserie
Inside Annabelle Brasserie (photo by Brian Kennedy)
When a fancy French fête is calling, Berg Hospitality’s feminine, all-day Autry Park gem is photo-ready, with flowers dangling from the ceilings, generous French doors streaming with sunlight, and cushy banquettes. Indulge with the raclette baguette prepared tableside and a Frenchie martini. Coq au Sutton is a lovely entrée with celery-root-truffle purée — and we can never pass up the lobster salad with caviar and lemon aioli.
Artisans
Beef tartare with poached egg yolk at Artisans
In its posh new Galleria-area home — which shockingly previously housed a James Coney Island — find a sultry hideaway with intimate dining areas, a showcase kitchen, and grand chef’s counter. Chef-restaurateur Jacques Fox and team play up French culinary classics with twists like the “trio of tastes,” with pan-seared scallops, blue-crab-stuffed wonton, and lobster cappuccino. A snug section of the bar can be reserved for a tête-a-tete or small gathering.
Bistro 555
From veteran Houston restaurateurs including Christophe Paul of Café Rabelais, and David and Sylvain Denis, this cozy Memorial go-to was originally Bistro Provence. It looks and tastes straight from the French countryside with dishes like frisée salad with lardons and French vinaigrette, and beef tenderloin with cognac green peppercorn sauce and garlic green beans. The succinct all-French wine list complements the menu beautifully down to the Sauternes to finish.
Brasserie du Parc
It may be on the ground floor of a Downtown highrise, but this breezy brasserie has a gorgeous view of Discovery Green and a glass “greenhouse” for dining. From deeply flavored lobster bisque to the pork-belly omelet and an indulgent croque monsieur, chef Jose Hernandez orchestrates menus for a business- and tourist-heavy crowd. Just add a glass of Sancerre and dessert for a fine repast. Divinely crackly mille-feuille apple tart with vanilla ice cream, anyone?
Brasserie 19
Although its founder is not French, this lively see-and-be-seen River Oaks mainstay certainly looks like a French brasserie with yards of white marble and bistro chairs. Its menu spotlights many French classics along with American fare. Top marks go to the Burgundy escargots, cassoulet beans with duck confit, and plump mussels in white wine, fennel and orange zest — with toasty baguettes, mercí! Salade Niçoise with seared tuna is a lunchtime fave.
Cocody Restaurant and Bar
The chef's table at Cocody
Swoon-worthy décor glistening with hundreds of crystal lights complements the fine French cuisine at this newcomer. Sink into a curvaceous rosy banquette for creations by French Master Chefs David Denis and Lionel Debon. Start the show with signature Lollies — skewers of stacked delicacies like salmon, cream cheese and sesame — or the clever whole-tomato and burrata plate. Segue to veal osso buco mushroom fricassee with risotto, or splurge on the Discovery multicourse tasting menu.
Etoile Cuisine Et Bar
Raspberry Bavaroise dessert (photo by Shannon O'Hara)
Since opening more than a decade ago in Uptown Park, Master Chef of France Philippe Verpiand’s authentic French haunt continues to shine. Regulars pile in for well executed cuisine like tarte fine au Saint Jacques (seared scallops) — or an impromptu bite at the bar of mushroom ravioli, moules a la crème with a French wine from the excellent list. All breads are house-made daily, and desserts are a must! Private wine room available.
Le Jardinier
Culinary Canvas Dish (photo by Julie Soefer)
When the setting requires cuisine equally as exquisite, the MFAH’s tres chic destination overlooking the Cullen Sculpture Garden is it. Grounded in French technique, the multiple menus offer modern twists with sophisticated plating. Roasted lamb with green pea coulis, Parisian gnocchi, and Dover Sole for Two are highlights. Expect seasonal plates inspired by current exhibits, too.
PS-21
Casablanca cocktail
Craving an intimate, softly lit cocoon complete with table linens for a French respite? Master Chef of France Philippe Schmit’s latest venture is the antidote for frenzied days, sans loud music. At this cozy Upper Kirby spot, start with the foie gras terrine and a French 75 garnished with a lemon macaron, and segue to steak frites ribeye with peppercorn, bordelaise or bearnaise sauce. The Grand Marnier soufflé with Clementine salad and crème anglaise is truly a grand finale.
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Get the 'Scoop!' Frozen Treats, Exciting Expansions, and More of This Week's Food News
Jun. 27, 2024
WITH THIS WEEK'S heat index, and a flip of the calendar, summer has officially arrived in every sense here in H-Town. But not to worry! There are plenty of cool things to eat, drink and do all over town this summer. Here's where to chill!
Phat Eatery
Sizzling beef with black pepper (photo by Chuck Cook)
After chef-proprietor Alex Au-Yeung lost his battle with cancer in March of this year, the new outpost of his acclaimed Phat Eatery — which originated in Katy and garnered him a James Beard nod in 2022 — in The Woodlands is even more worth the trek. It opened this week and is a celebration of Au-Yeung's legacy, from the mouthwatering menu (roti canai is simply the only way to start a meal) to the beautiful, expansive space that is three times the size of the Katy location. It was said to be his "dream restaurant," so on his behalf, Directors of Operations Kevin Lee and Marvin He proudly bring their friend’s dream to life within Grogan’s Mill Village Center.
El Bolillo Bakery
Another Houston favorite has opened a new location. El Bolillo Bakery is now open on Fountain View, in the now-colorful building previously home to Firehouse Saloon. The murals featuring butterfly motifs were painted by a 10-year employee of El Bolillo, Mariel Rascon. Take in the vibrant visuals while placing an order for the award-winning tres leches — representative of the bakery's traditional Mexican roots — and an impressive array of 100-plus breads and pan dulce showcasing global flavors and creativity. This is the fifth El Bolillo Bakery in the Houston area.
Holman Draft Hall
Holman Draft Hall (photo by Emily Vitek)
The Midtown food hall will close on July 1 — but will be right back, they say! It'll reopen in August as Solarium, which will offer "an expanded multi-faceted experience including full drink and dining service," per a release. This weekend, Holman Draft Hall hosts a "BRB" happy-hour event all weekend long, with special pricing on beer, wine and frozens, and a brunch menu featuring "Brunchuterie" boards.
Sound & Color
Dawn Burrell (photo by Jenn Duncan)
Chef Dawn Burrell debuts a new dining series celebrating culinary and mixed-media arts, inspired by her vast travels. The first one is this Saturday, June 29, and is presented in collaboration with chef Dominick Lee of forthcoming Augustine's. New Orleans-reared Lee has worked in Houston kitchens including Kiran's and Poitín, and most recently opened an exciting bar-restaurant in New York before making his way back to Houston. For her part, Burrell has also just returned to H-Town, after a five-month stint in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, where she opened Marcus Samuelsson's namesake restaurant, Marcus Addis. Tickets are available here.
Little's Oyster Bar
Little's Oyster Bar (photo by Garrett Smith)
One of Houston's hottest reservations has a refreshing new menu to tout. Try the Soupe de Poisson with grilled scallops, wild-alligator andouille and garlic toast, or perhaps the chicken-fried soft-shell crabs with hot honey. Keep things lighter with selections like summer squash with olive-salsa-verde — and don't turn down a drink! The Peach Pit with Maker's Mark and peach cream soda hits the spot.
The Pit Room
Sundae selections at The Pit Room (photo by Alex Montoya)
The new Memorial City barbecue joint has a can't-miss feature: a dessert bar with ice cream (not just chocolate and vanilla here — there's red-velvet-white-chocolate, snickerdoodle and more!), toppings, and options for cookie sandwiches and sundaes. Yes, please.
State Fare
All three locations of this comfort-food-chic standby will serve a 'Merica-Style Freedom Board during the four-day July 4th weekend, with elote-style corn ribs, deviled eggs, and State Fare's famous dill pickle dip with barbecue chips. And try a flight of frozen cocktails, available all summer long.
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