Ellie Francisco, Stuart Zarrow
The pool at Zen
Thank goodness for the signs, and the shuttle between the three distinct but interlocking resorts that comprise Grand Velas. One resort is adults-only and quiet, the other very family-friendly, and the third — the Zen Grand, immersed in tropical foliage — is so sexy the Love Is Blind reality show filmed here.
There’s so much to do, with the Caribbean waters to the east — Cozumel isle’s out in the sea — and the mangroves of the Yucatan to your back. Iguanas, racoons and coatis (sleeker racoons) wander in from the jungle, leaving behind spider monkeys, capybaras and jaguars, which keep their distance.
Consider an eco tour. Glimpses of wildlife are assured, and the reports of the resort’s sustainability initiatives — artificial reefs, tree-transplanting efforts — are fascinating. So are the grounds’ cenotes, the deep freshwater pits formed by geothermal activity after that dinosaur-ending asteroid hit here 66 million years ago.
The tour ends with a honey tasting, pairing cheeses with honey from the property’s bees. The sweet stuff also turns up in Se Spa. As part of one treatment, it’s smeared all over you before you soak in a tub then get a massage. The spa, where treatments begin with a multi-stage “water ceremony” in which you rotate through hot and cold sauna-like stations, is among the largest on the continent, featuring immense pools and cavernous relaxation spaces.
If honey isn’t enough, try one of eight restaurants. Cocine de Autor, where the tasting menu amazes with polished little plates of bone marrow with caviar and cabbage with pistachios, has a Michelin star. But if you eat there every night, you’ll miss the grilled “drunken” octopus at Mexican Frida — and the blue cheese croissants at Vegas-y/Parisian-y Piaf, whose chandeliers drip red crystals and whose beautiful violinist plays classicalized pop songs like something out of Bridgerton.
The best meals may be in the vast daily lunch buffet — roasted duck and lamb, many varieties of ceviche and sushi, lobster tail and giant cracked crab legs. It’s daunting and easy to get turned around. But getting lost has rarely been so delicious.
Mexican morsels at Frida
The cavernous pool and relaxation space at Se Spa
The Cottages at the Boat Basin
For those wanting to be close to all the action, the harbor is where to stay. The Cottages at the Boat Basin are a row of Quaker-style houses on the slip that juts into the harbor — the closest thing to staying on the water without being on a boat. Renovated this year by Nantucket-based designer Audrey Sterk, each little house is inspired by a whaling ship from a time, 300 years ago, when the island was the busiest whaling port in the world. With a color palette of — what else — deep ocean blue and misty gray, the historic accommodations have been revamped without altering the architecture. Original details, including the vaulted ceiling beams, remain.
Surrounding the Cottages are art galleries and eateries; the adjacent Cru oyster bar has day parties with East Coast prepsters galore.
From here, it’s a picturesque walk along cobblestone streets to Nantucket’s small downtown. Nestled in the maze of shingle-style architecture and Greek revival buildings — take the walking tour from the Whaling Museum for the full story on the marriage of these two styles — are charming shops and ultra-hip restaurants. Located in a former sea captain’s house, stylish Via Mare offers mostly small plates and cool cocktails in environs akin to Houston’s La Colombe d’Or.
Meanwhile, on the northeast end of Nantucket, find The Cottages’ sister property, The Wauwinet. It’s a quieter, but equally scenic, hotel overrun with lush hydrangeas bathed in fresh sea air. The hotel’s restaurant, Topper’s, is overseen by its namesake — an Airedale Terrier — in the form of a large oil painting hung prominently in the dining room. The oysters here are harvested a literal stone’s throw from the restaurant, and the wine program has been annually awarded the Wine Spectator Grand since 1996. It’s the perfect place to enjoy a nice pour overlooking the water, while daydreaming about staying on island forever.
Oysters at Cru
Sankaty Head Lighthouse