Southern Decadence: Inside the Opulent New Black-Owned Restos Warwick and Rare

Southern Decadence: Inside the Opulent New Black-Owned Restos Warwick and Rare

Rare’s Thai salad

TWO POSH NEW eateries in the voluptuous style of rich steakhouses, Rare and The Warwick — both Black-owned and led by African American chefs, and influenced by the overlapping traditions of Southern cuisine, soul food and Cajun-creole cooking — have opened in Houston.


The old journalist’s rule is that you need three instances of a phenomenon to declare it a trend. But, with a pair of such terrific examples, surely we only need two, to note that something glorious is happening.

Rare has arrived on the Washington Corridor, with an opulent supper-club vibe. There are red-leather banquettes, marble floors, a stage for live performance and a regal bar to one side — oh, and a sexy terrace bar upstairs. This is the vision of chef and co-owner Don Bowie, whose three-year-old comfort-food-chic Taste Kitchen + Bar and signature fried chicken and waffles have been fun Midtown hits.

Chef Ware

The red leather and marble dining room at Rare

Chef Bowie

Desperado at The Warwick

The winning instincts of the chef — whose partners at Rare include rapper-entrepreneur Akon and Texans football star Andre Johnson — are, of course, most obvious in the menu. Steakhouse staples are updated with clever twists, such as the artichoke dip, Caesar salad and Oysters Rockefeller, all with collard greens rather than spinach.

Among the other starters, fried calamari gets a “crispy Cajun” spin, and fried okra comes with garlicky house-made ranch. The New Orleans-style barbecue shrimp conveniently comes atop a toasted baguette, soaking up all the buttery goodness, to keep you from having to sop up the baking sauce in genteel company. (Interestingly, despite the Deep South focus, the raw oysters at Rare are sourced Back East, as the daintier Yankee versions are sweeter/brinier and perhaps a bit classier for slurping.)

The fusion in the main courses is more subtle but no less delicious. If you don’t get a steak — your $175 tomahawk can come blackened or jerk-seasoned, if you wish — try the seabass; it arrives, a bit implausibly but quite successfully, with fluffy mashed sweet potatoes. The dessert menu is sparse but includes both deep-fried bread pudding and warm lemon pudding cake, so, really, enough said.

Similarly, the new Warwick, whose name is an homage to the grand old-Houston hotel now home to the ZaZa in the Museum District, touts reimagined, Southern-tinged dishes by Exec Chef Antoine Ware — served up in a slickly a renovated space on Westheimer, just off Fountain View, that was formerly a Houston’s. Think cozy mid-century chic, with pretty women in pearls poured into snug circular banquettes of pale green velvet, Carrara marble table tops gently reflecting moody low light. A lounge-y adjacent barroom is meant to transition to a proper nightspot as the evening evolves.

Collards make an appearance in an oyster app here, too — charbroiled with cheese and garlic butter — and a nod to bold Caribbean jerk flavors turns up in the wings starter. And, with Ware’s roots running to Louisiana, where he worked with the Brennan family in New Orleans, clear NOLA influences abound; the most obvious (and wonderful) example is the Snapper Orleans, which is blackened fish and lump crab atop andouille-studded “jambalaya risotto.” Caramel bread pudding à la mode for dessert.

Food
Leadership in Action: ‘Family, Community and Spiritual Connection’ Drives Success for Henry Richardson

How did you get to where you are today? The present moment is a combined history of my family, my time as an athlete, my passion for learning, and my desire to see the world be better. I grew up as a successful springboard and platform diver, however, an injury caused me to seek alternative treatments to heal my body. In that process, I discovered the power of yoga, exercise, meditation, mindset, and nutrition. This holistic approach eventually led me to open a Pilates and cycling studio called DEFINE body & mind. I opened studios around the nation, and after selling most of my business between 2017-2019, I was ready to explore how I could make an even greater impact on the wellbeing of our community. In 2023, I started actively working on a brand new multi-family/apartment concept called, Define Living. The idea focused on offering health and wellness services within a beautiful apartment setting to increase the wellbeing of our residents. Having a strong sense of community is the number one factor in living a happy life, so why not build a community where daily fitness, cooking classes, and social connection are the norm? We opened Define Living in March of 2024, and we couldn’t be happier with how things are being received. We are already looking at building more concepts like this in the Houston area and beyond.

Keep Reading Show less

WITH HOLIDAY PARTIES and festive dinners galore this time of year, it’s officially Champagne season! Artisans is celebrating with a special bubbly dinner paired with sips from famous Champagne house Moet Chandon Winery on Thursday, November 14.

Keep Reading Show less
Food

HOLIDAY CHEER IS coming to Bandista, the Four Seasons hotel’s swanky speakeasy, in the form of a fun collab with Nashville bar Four Walls.

Keep Reading Show less
Food